by Erin Feith, Coordinator of Research & Visitor Engagement
June 9, 2026
The mid-19th century saw the development of a fashion trend that became a staple in the American woman’s closet: the shirtwaist. Encapsulated in its name, the piece was defined as a tailored blouse that borrowed style elements from men’s shirts. Through its design and affordability, the shirtwaist provided accessible fashion that met the changing needs of women as they increasingly joined the workforce.
Arriving on scene in the 1860s, shirtwaists were initially worn as summer garments before being adapted for all seasons by the close of the century. Indeed, their versatility garnered widespread attention as wearers found the simple design could be tailored for any occasion from daytime activities to evening soirees. Reflecting their multi-faceted nature, materials used in their production ranged from cotton and linen to silk of any color. These fabrics were then cut to the trending silhouette, often a high-necked blouse with a fitted back and fuller front. They were frequently embellished with decorative cuffs, lace, or puffs according to the wearer’s taste. Once completed, shirtwaists could be sold either as a part of an ensemble or as an individual piece. Catalogues such as Sears, Roebuck & Co. capitalized on shirtwaists as “separates,” offering 159 options in their 1909 issue.
In addition to being fashionable, shirtwaists proved functional, contributing to their popularity among working women. As the number of women working outside of the home rose to 25% by the early 20th century, the ready-made shirtwaist which lacked the typical inner boning or lining of dress bodices found a market among those desiring less cumbersome clothes. Additionally, as standalone pieces, they offered a more cost-effective way to expand one’s wardrobe, as one skirt could be paired with a variety of shirtwaists to form multiple outfits to be worn to the workplace or about town. Given its accessibility and practicality, the fashion piece became somewhat synonymous with working women and was often featured in imagery for the women’s rights movement.
As the 20th century progressed, the shirtwaist industry thrived and gained a ubiquity in women’s wardrobes. While the term fell out of fashion by the 1920s, the style of a separate blouse that could be mixed and matched never did. Today, the legacy of the shirtwaist remains, combining style and sensibility across the generations.
