by Erin Feith, Research Assistant
August 20, 2024
Top photo: salt cellar, Koch & Bergfeld, Bremen, Germany, late 19th century, Collection of Morris County Historical Society
Even having a pinch of salt went a long way, as the now-common seasoning was once an expensive luxury. The highly sought-after commodity necessitated a special receptacle known as a salt cellar, which kept moisture away from the valuable ingredient and reduced its chance of clumping. Over the generations, the salt cellar became just as much of a status symbol as its contents, through both its construction and placement at meal times.
Dating back to ancient Rome, salt cellars were a common sight on the tables of the affluent. Typically made of silver, early versions were often a single, large, highly decorative bowl. Indeed, their designs sometimes became so ornate as to limit their functionality. By the Middle Ages, it was customary for the embellished salt cellar to be placed in front of the host to indicate their wealth. Guests of honor were also seated nearer to the salt cellar, or “above the salt,” as a way of demonstrating respect, while those of lower social status or children sat further away.
From the 18th to 19th century, salt cellars experienced a shift in presentation and design. Replacing the single, communal bowls were small, personalized cauldron-shaped bowls raised on three legs, often with whimsical yet luxurious designs, such as shells, flowers, and animals. Silver remained the primary material used, but the receptacles now featured either a gold-washed or glass-lined interior, which prevented the salt from corroding the silver. The advent of the individual salt cellar was also accompanied by the appearance of dainty salt spoons.
The development of anti-clumping salt in the early 20th century facilitated the development and use of modern salt shakers as a more affordable and utilitarian option for the now ubiquitous seasoning. Thus, by the mid-20th century, salt cellars had fallen out of everyday use. However, in the examples that remain, they continue to add just a pinch of the past to tables of the present.
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